Abdulkarim recites the adhan
Cesare plays with the Siqiliah ensemble
“I am Abdulkarim, and I converted to Islam. This is the sixth Ramadan since I discovered my path.”
“After a while this Shaykh (Islamic scholar) came to visit and I started following the prayers, without knowing what I was doing.
I put my head on the ground. I didn't know if I was ready to perform all these practices. My heart was ready, but my head wasn’t.”
“At one point the Shaykh called for me and said: lift your finger and recite the shahada (declaration of faith).
He then gave me my name: Abdulkarim. When he left my stomach was in tangles. From that day on my life changed.”
“My mother was used to seeing me for lunch on Sundays. But with Ramadan I started making excuses. She insisted and after a few weeks I told her I could not eat that day.
She asked: ‘are you doing Ramadan?’ And I said: ‘yes’. And she replied: ‘are you an idiot?’ And pom, she hung up the phone!”
“When I first set foot in the mosque, I was a little intimidated. I had never had the courage to enter. But I was immediately welcomed.”
“This mosque was a deconsecrated church.
It was donated by the Palermo municipality to the Tunisian consulate who converted it into a mosque.
They put a wooden minbar (pulpit), and they put lines with tape so that people could line up correctly for prayer.”
“Today Muslims in Palermo are marginalised. They have few resources and spaces for worship.”
“They have to fund their own, with low incomes and there’s no support from the council
Some are old, dilapidated warehouses converted to mosques, but they are treated so well.
If a place is cared for, it can be very beautiful and tranquil. This is all you need to do the internal work.”
“I grew up in Palermo, but now I have my own way of being in my city. You are in the same place but you experience it differently.
I have had the opportunity to connect with different Islamic communities in Palermo, I developed the curiosity and openness to get to know them.”
“I began to realize that I had lived all along in an Arab city. I started seeing places that I had lived in for many years differently.
It was like reliving, revisiting them.
This continuity with the Islamic past became visible to me. It is still alive.”
“My name is Cesare Tinì. I lived most of my life in Palermo.”
“I converted to Islam and initially followed the Sunni way. Over time I grew closer to Sufism and developed an interest in music and spirituality. I then learnt about Alevism, particularly the form practiced by Kurds in Turkey.
I had many North African friends, and I was fascinated by the sacredness of friendship, which I also perceived in the Sicilian people.”
“I am a restorer, and I worked in the Monreale Cathedral on the restoration of the oldest floor mosaics. These mosaics communicated a deep spiritual mystery to me.”
“With oriental mosaics, circles intersect to create complex shapes, but these do not express the completeness of the design.
The Western approach to mosaic restoration limits the decoration to a pre-defined conceptual space, the Eastern one assumes that the decoration is infinite like the universe. I represent here only what is possible to bring into this space.”
“This instrument is similar to the Kurdish tambur, but it's Sicilian because I made it!
Music is my tool to search for inner peace, serenity, to find vibrations that lead me to centre that internal place that everyone identifies in a different way.”
“Instruments in Eastern music allow a progression of sounds from one note to another, unlike Western music which has half sounds, but doesn't use the full range of notes.
In Palermo we created a group called Siqiliah, using the Arabic name of ancient Sicily. We played music mixing North African and Turkish influences with sounds from the Sicilian tradition.”
“This instrument is similar to the Kurdish tambur, but it's Sicilian because I made it!
Music is my tool to search for inner peace, serenity, to find vibrations that lead me to centre that internal place that everyone identifies in a different way.”
“The cathedral of Palermo has a visible column at the entrance with an inscription from the Quran. In the apse area there are traces of muqarnas which belonged to the ancient mosque.
The rivers and cities have names that come from Arabic, as do many terms in Sicilian dialect.”
“Tunisia is much closer than Naples. So imagine how European we can feel in this part of the world. We are a Mediterranean country.”
Islamic traces
Photo, text and audio project based on photographs by Kate Stanworth and audio by Kate Stanworth and Giulia Liberatore, with the support of Stefano Edward Puvanendrarajah.
Islamic Traces follows a small number of Palermo's inhabitants – both Muslim and those of other faiths or none – as they search for remnants of the city's Islamic past. Through architecture, landscape, sensory experiences, religious practices, language and the arts, they bring their imaginaries of the past to life, recounting it and giving it meaning in the present.
Drawing on their own research and personal discoveries, the historical accounts they provide are infused with their feelings, narratives, forms of nostalgia, hauntings, resonances and sensory experiences. In doing so, they revive this Islamic past, emphasizing its centrality to present-day Sicily while also challenging dominant, linear, totalizing and objective modes of history-making.
The project was made possible thanks to the collaborations of Abdulkarim Fabio Crisà, Noemi Gaudesi, Boulallam Abderrahmane Mustafa, Sirus Nikkhoo Sari Ghieh, Tehseen Nisar, Stefano Edward Puvanendrarajah, Helena Russo and Cesare Tinì.
Listen to the interviews in Italian